Skincare Ingredient Series – Exfoliators
There are so many products and so many different skincare ingredients. Its so confusing when you do not know what products is best to address your concern and skin type.
When it comes to exfoliation, you have the option of a physical scrub or an acid. These “acid” are not harmful and are usually naturally occurring . They have exfoliating properties that have many benefits that can address concerns like dehydration, acne or hyper pigmentation to name a few.
AHA = Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
BHA = Beta-Hydroxy Acids
What are these common exfoliating ingredients and what can they do for your skin so that you can be completely informed next time you book yourself in for one of our Dermaquest facials.
What are AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids)?
Naturally occurring acids arederived from fruit, milk and sugar cane. They are mainly used in exfoliating products to slough away your dead skin cells resulting in a dull and tired complexion.
AHAs help promote the growth of new skin cells underneath the skins surface, helping to give you a brightened, more radiant complexion. AHAs are very gentle and are often called ‘chemical peels’ or ‘chemical exfoliators’.
We use 5 types of AHA in our skincare products:
- Glycolic acid (sugar cane)
- Lactic acid (milk)
- Malic acid (apples and pears)
- Citric acid (oranges and lemons)
- Tartaric acid (grapes)
Glycolic and lactic acid are the most common.
Glycolic acid molecules are tiny. They are able to penetrate through to the skin, making it the first choice for anti-ageing products.
Glycolic acid helps to boost cell turnover and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin. Anti-inflammatory properties make it excellent for acne and rosacea.
Lactic acid is great for skin prone to redness due to its hypersensitivity, rosacea typically caused by broken capillaries or acne. Attracting and retaining moisture means it does not over-dry your skin while providing great exfoliation and also brightening your complexion.
Using AHAs in your skincare long term can have real benefits, it can help to make the epidermis, your skins top layer thicker over time and increase collagen production.
AHA skincare can help protect and repair UV damaged skin but at the same time AHAs do cause photosensitivity so always wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen!!
What are BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids)?
BHAs are the stronger of the two, better suited to oily and acne-prone skin.
AHAs are water soluble, BHAs are oil soluble which makes them excellent if you are concerned about blackheads, whiteheads, and other acne blemishes. BHAs get down deep into your pores and don’t just eat away at the dead skin; they dissolve the oil, dirt and anything else blocking your pores.
The best known BHA is salicylic acid which is a derivative of aspirin a popular anti-inflammatory. Avoid skincare products containing salicylic acid if you are allergic to aspirin.
BHAs have the added benefit of making your skin better equipped to absorbs products. So, when you add your anti-ageing serums after a treatment there’s nothing in your beautifully clean pores to stop it absorbing and staying on – you get a longer lasting effect which can only be a good thing.
BHAs also increase the thickness of your skin, and boost collagen production like AHAs but they don’t have the same humectant (water attracting and retaining) properties so they can dry your skin out.
How to use AHAs and BHAs
AHAs are best for clients worried about loss of firmness, dryness or uneven skin. They are also the best overall for anti-aging.
BHAs are more effective for treating breakouts cause by acne or excessive oil production.
Should be applied after cleansing and toning.
Should not be applied directly on the eyelids or directly under your eye.
Serums and eye creams can be applied straight away, don’t forget sunscreen.
For more AHA and BHA advice, contact us.
